In Spain, they include Xarel.lo (yes, that’s actually how
it’s spelled), Parellada and Macabeo, though Chardonnay
has grown in popularity. It reality, Cava is not exclusive
a Catalonia. It can and is made in other parts of Spain
like Rioja, but since 95% comes from the wineries there,
Spaniards associate it with no other region. And with good
reason. The best comes from there. Cava is currently
second in the rankings of world sparkling wine production,
behind Champagne, but one of its strongest points is its
attractive price/quality ratio. Whereas some in the past
felt these bubblies were a notch below the French in terms
of sophistication, there is little question that they have
reached heights of elegance worthy of the world’s
greatest.
The rest of Catalonia's
wine centres around still wine. Traditionally, the king of
the land was D.O. Penedès. Many of the wineries here
traditionally made white wine for the Cava producers, so
Penedès has always been particularly strong in this area.
Since as early as the 1960s, however, some of Spain's most
revolutionary winemakers have earned their fame here,
leading this country to its present-day new look. Now
reds, using both domestic and foreign varieties have begun
to take centre stage. Quality can be inconsistent, but at
their best, they can be wonderful wines.
Another major figure from
Catalonia is D.O.Ca. Priorat, in the province of
Tarragona. This wine region nearly died twenty years ago
because no one pictured a future for it. Now it stands
above the rest of Spain as home to some of the world's
classiest and most expensive reds. A true Cinderella
story. They are full-bodied and rich wines with an
mineral-like character that is hard to come by. This is
due in part to the land’s unique slate enriched earth that
anchors many of the decades old vines of Cariñena and
Garnacha. While the sticker prices mean many consumers
will have to put off buying one for a special occasion
(many go for 30, 40, 50 and up to 350 euros!), the
wineries have kindly begun to market more pocket-friendly
bottles, no doubt a willingness to cater to us mortals!
Literally forming a ring
around Priorat, we find a brand-new region called D.O.
Montsant. Once a sub-zone of a wine region called
Tarragona, Montsant has quickly attracted both winemakers
and buyers alike as a another Priorat. Once again, red
wine is the main fare. The wines are not exactly the same
as Priorat say the experts, but they possess a lot of
their thick and hearty nature. And the prices are a lot
friendlier, so take advantage while the going is good.
That leaves us with a
handful of other smaller regions which may not have
acquired the fame of the former, but which have all proven
themselves commendable producers of excellent wine. Many
focus on reds, but before we get to them, let’s point out
a tiny white wine region just north of Barcelona called
D.O. Alella. It doesn't produce a lot, but the whites from
these vineyards are refreshing and delicious. They are
generally made with Pansa Blanca, though Sauvignon Blanc
and Chardonnay have come on strong too.
Another fascinating wine
region is D.O. Costers del Segre. Comprised of wineries
scattered all over the province of Lleida, Costers del
Segre offers a whole host of wines, many of which are both
well-regarded and reasonably priced. Equally vast is the
range of grape varieties employed. They have adapted well
to the land and make for new surprises every year.
D.O. Tarragona used to be
a region with a bright future until Montsant seceded. It
will need time to recuperate, but there is still plenty of
potential. D.O. Terra Alta, also in Tarragona,
consistently contributes some of the most interesting
wines in Catalonia, especially in both the red and white
wine department. D.O. Conca de Barberá is a small nearly
unknown wine region which ironically produces some of
Catalonia's most highly acclaimed wines. As a rule though,
it still needs time to grow. Another near anonymous region
is D.O. Pla de Bages. Rarely found outside of Catalonia,
it is coming up with some very good wines, both white and
red. All the way up north, we encounter D.O. Empordá-Costa
Brava, previously a massive producer of ordinary rosés
that appealed to the unwary tourists, it is now earning
recognition for its excellent modern-style reds.
On top of all this,
mention must be given to the super wine region D.O.
Catalunya, which freely includes wineries from all of the
abovementioned regions in an apparent attempt by
winemakers to simplify the somewhat dizzying number of
wine regions that befuddle the customer. The number of
members and the production have risen exponentially, and
commercial success, at least, seems to be guaranteed.
Feature written by Brian
Murdock, author of the book "Let's
Open a Bottle". You can
contact Brian at murflo@eresmas.net.
