The natural beauty of Cantabria
Cantabria’s natural heritage is exceptional. The rivers, beaches, cliffs and valleys, mountains and forests create a mosaic of contrasting landscapes. From among the considerable number of places of interest, the ones with special official protection are particularly noteworthy, although there are others of exceptional beauty, such as the source of the Ason River, Santander Bay, Abra del Pas, Ebro Marsh and the estuaries of Tina Mayor and Tina Menor. There are six protected nature areas in Cantabria.
Parque Natural de las Dunas de Liencres, located at the mouth of the Pas River, forms the most important dune complex in the northern Iberian peninsula.

Parque del Macizo de Peñacabarga, which includes within its borders the Cábarceno karst, a spectacular reddish geological formation, encompasses a nature park with partially free roaming animals. The Parque Natural de Oyambre is a scenic park amid marshes and meadows with the Picos de Europa mountains as a backdrop. This is the place where the most diverse ecosystems co-exist. The Parque Natural Saja-Besaya sits between the basins of these two rivers and preserves considerable forests of beech and oak trees, where animal species threatened with extinction such as the brown bear and golden eagle can still be found. The Reserva Natural de las Marismas de Santona y Noja is a nature reserve around one of the most valuable estuaries ecologically in northern Spain. There are regularly more than 80 species of birds in the marshes .The Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa, a national park containing the highest peaks in the Cantabrian mountains, has elevations exceeding 2,500 meters (8,200 feet) and landscapes of long narrow canyons and deep valleys.

History
Archaeological remains from the Late Palaeolithic period found in different parts of the region, including Altamira and PuenteViesgo among others, are evidence of human presence in prehistoric times. In the Middle Ages the first settlements were founded around various monasteries; refuges to those fleeing from the Arab invasion. The boundaries of the different areas of the region were defined during this period, and the present day. Cantabrian borders (although slightly reduced) are basically the same. The strategic location of Cantabria soon brought about trading by sea with the principal European Ports and later with America. The 17th and 18th centuries were times of great commercial expansion characterized by heavy emigration to the New World. The 19th century produced the first traces of industry, a flourishing banking institution and a well-to-do middle class. Nowadays, although agriculture, cattle-raising and fishing continue to occupy a good part of the population, the tourism industry, including the hotel and restaurant business, as well as other service sectors, are the main pillars of the Cantabrian economy.

Exploring Cantabria
The region can be divided into 8 different areas, each having its own characteristics.

Liebeña and Picos de Europa
We begin this itinerary in Unquera on the N-621 road at the north-west end of Cantabria through the Desfiladero de la Hermida, a narrow canyon 19 kilometres long with nearly vertical walls that run along the meandering course of the Deva River. In the canyon, we can go on foot to the right, over a difficult road leading to Tresviso where they produce a blue cheese by hand. The end of the canyon approaches Lebeña. The church of Santa Maria here was built in the 10th century and is the best example of Mozarab architecture in Cantabria. The term Mozarab refers to the Christians living in Moslem Spain and their style of architecture. You can then travel to the pretty hamlet of Potes, capital of the region of Liebana and geographic and commercial centre of the surrounding five valleys. In the picturesque village centre, the chief monuments are the towers of the Infantado and Orejon de la Lama, both dating from the 15th century. Also known as the village of bridges, market day is held every Monday throughout the year. Continuing along our journey through the valley of Camaleño, we come upon the Monastery of Santo Toribio. Probably founded in the 6th century, it reached great notoriety in the ninth century because the monk Beato resided here and wrote Commentaries of the Apocalypses, a masterpiece of medieval miniature art. The church is the most interesting part of the complex. The present Gothic style was achieved when they built over the former ruins. At the beginning of the 18th century, construction was completed with a building of a baroque chapel to house the Lignum Crucis (the largest surviving piece of the True Cross of Christ), attributing to Saint Toribio, bishop of Astorga, the transfer of this relic to Cantabria. The Monastery of Santo Toribio is one of the four places in the world where it is possible to obtain the Jubilee or plenery indulgence in addition to being on the pilgrimage road to Santiago de Compostela. Nearby is one of the most singular hermitage complexes in Spain. Proceeding on our route , we can see small picturesque villages hanging on the sides of the imposing eastern massif of the Picos de Europa, such as Arguebanes, Brez, Tanarriou and Mogrovejo, distinguished by the silhouette of its graceful medieval tower framed between the high mountain. All of the villages are charming rural hamlets immersed in dreamlike scenery where the local specialty of the region ,cocido lebaniego (a stew featuring chickpeas) can be savoured. The end of the tour takes us to Fuente Dé. Here we find a Parador de Turismo and a cable car which takes us almost vertically up the face of the central massif of the Picos de Europa . From the lookout, the panoramic view is extraordinary . Other excursions through the other valleys of Liebana will guide us to Piasca, where we find the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria dating from 1174, or the Llesba lookout, next to San Glorio pass, commanding a spectacular view of the Cantabrian mountains.

Saja-Nansa Area
The Saja-Nansa river basins define the boundaries of the central-western area of Cantabria. Starting out from Cabezón de la Sal on the N-634 ,where they hold the festival called Dia de Cantabria (Day of Cantabria) at the beginning of August, we will find Ruente. The famous “Fuentona” here is a geological feature of interest. Next is Valle, the capital of Cabuérniga. At the crossroads, a right turn leads to Carmona , Tudanca and Polaciones which share the route with the Nansa River. The Reserva Nacional de Caza (National Hunting Reserve) is the largest in Spain. Taking this itinerary, we pass by a series of villages with interesting rural architecture until we reach the National Historic-Artistic complex of Bárcena Mayor, a storybook village seemingly frozen in time. Throughout the Cabuérniga valley you can savour the regional specialty :cocido montanes (a stew made of dried beans, cabbage, meat and blood sausage). A turn-off to the right at Valle leads to a mountain village with equally handsome popular architecture, Carmona. Particularly interesting is the Palacio de Rubin de Celis, converted into a charming hotel. In Carmona, they still preserve the tradition of handcrafting abarcas (typical wooden shoes used in the villages). Our itinerary passes San Sebastian de Garabandal, a town which became famous in the 1950’s because the Virgin Mary was said to have appeared to some young girls. Tucked on the side of a mountain along the route, La Cohilla reservoir provides access to the Polaciones valley with magnificent examples of rural architecture (Puente Pumar, Uznayo, Lombraña).

The Western Coast of Cantabria
The western coast of Cantabria boasts monumental towns, as well as traditional seafaring villages. We start out in Suances, a tourist hamlet in the region of the Besaya, which has excellent beaches of fine sand and remarkable cuisine. Next, Santillana del Mar is the most important National Historic-Artistic complex in Cantabria and one the best preserved in Spain. The entire town is a national monument and living museum of a medieval 9th century village, developed around the Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana, although most of the town pertains to diverse architectural styles from the 14th to the 18th centuries. Suffice it to say that here we can uncover medieval towers (Torre del Merino, Torre de DonBorja), Renaissance palaces (Palacio de los Velarde) and Baroque noble homes (Casona de los Villa, Casa de la Archiduquesa de Austria, Casa de los Valdivieso). In spite of this diversity of styles, the town presents a harmonious and homogeneous aspect, approachable by a single access road: the Calle de Santo Domingo. Here the old quarter begins, open only to pedestrian traffic. The road forks and one branch of the Y- shaped street leads to the Collegiate Church, the most important religious monument in the Romanesque style in Cantabria. Erected over a former hermitage in the 12th century, it preserves a remarkable cloister with skilfully sculpted capitals. Tucked among the stone buildings in Santillana del Mar are three interesting museums. Take a few minutes to taste the local specialty of leche con bizchocho (traditional sponge cake served with milk ). Two kilometres from Santillana del Mar are the Caves of Altamira. Discovered in 1879 and declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO, they enclose polychrome cave paintings made by early man during the Late Palaeolithic period approximately 14,000 years ago.

Visits have been restricted for the last two years but soon the inauguration of an interesting replica should remedy this situation . Leaving Altamira in the direction of Comillas, we pass by Cobreces with its Cistercian abbey (noted for its excellent cheese) and lovely beach. Comillas combines a popular architectural tradition, represented by the old square, the parish church and some of the homes in the centre of the village , together with notable buildings erected during the period of splendour enjoyed under the tutelage of the first marquis. Four buildings preside over the town. First, the Neo-Gothic Palacio de Sobrellano, residence of the marquis of Comillas and summer residence of the Spanish royal family in 1881 and 1882. Next to the palace is the richly decorated villa known as El Capricho created by the internationally acclaimed architect Antonio Gaudi, now used as a deluxe restaurant. Third is the cemetery with interesting Modernist mausoleums culminated by the famed angel of Llimona and last of all, the monumental Pontifical University, Neo-Gothic in style with Mudejar influences, which has graduated notable archbishops. (Mudejar was a Moslem subject to Christian rule , a term extending also to their architecture). Continuing on our route, we arrive at San Vicente de la Barquera, an old world fishing village and one of the loveliest spots along the Spanish coast against the breathtaking backdrop of the snow-capped Picos de Europa. San Vincente de la Barquera also boasts a splendid group of white sand beaches, a quaint old quarter with a church ,a castle and the remains of old walls, in addition to its characteristic old bridges . A fine assortment of fish and seafood is an added attraction, along with its local specialty of sorropotun (a variety of fish stew).

Besaya River Basin
The Besaya river originates near Reinosa and together with the Saja drains into the Suances. Its natural course runs through the centre of the region and is a continuous succession of narrow ravines and broad valleys which have formed the main route to the plateau of Castile since Roman times. Starting out in Torrelavega, where the monumental ensemble of Viernoles with palaces and mansions from the 18th to the 20th centuries and the National Market of Ganados are of particular interest , the first town we run into is Cartes with excellent examples of civil mountain architecture from the 17th and 18th centuries. Of special interest are the fortified towers joined by an arch, symbol of the medieval power of the Manrique family. Cartes as well as the neighbouring town of Riocorvo have been declared National Historic-Artistic complexes. In the vicinity of Riocorvo, we find the Church of Santa Maria de Yermo, a magnificent example of the Romanesque style. Next on the itinerary, we come to Las Caldas with its health spa and a monastery from the mid-17th century which houses a notable and venerated altarpiece .
Accompanying the Besaya river while it flows through the Buelna valley, off to one side is the magnificent gigantic stele of Barros (a Cantabrian funerary stone) and the tower of Almirante Pero Nino. Nearby, Bostronizo exhibits notable homes from the 18th century and a lovely Mozarab hermitage amidst the woods. In Las Fraguas, surrounded by charming grounds, stands the sumptuous Palacio de Hornillo, an English style mansion and the interesting neoclassical Church of San Jorge. Arenas de lguña and the entire valley (especially Silio) is the ethnographic reference point with traditional displays such as Las Marzas (canticles which celebrate the arrival of spring) and festivals such as La Vijanera (a masquerade which takes place the first of the year). Between Pie de Concha and Somaconcha, a stretch of 5 kilometres is preserved of the old Roman road which connected the Roman settlement of Juliobriga (in Campoo) with Portus Belendium (now Suances). It is specifically marked for visitors.

Campoo and Valderredible
The broad region confronting us now is the southernmost region in Cantabria. It has a rich fertile valley bathed by the Ebro river which flows slowly into a vast reservoir a short distance beyond its source. Its vegetation and climate are remarkably different from the rest of the region. The land is not particularly uneven except for the peaks of Alto Campoo where we find a winter sports resort. Our itinerary departs from Reinosa on the N611, the largest city and capital of the region. The primitive medieval citadel developed early due to the strategic situation on the road to the plateau. An interesting group of buildings using ashlar masonry was erected in the 16th and 17th centuries. Reinosa is also noted for pantortillas (a type of pastry). Heading in the direction of the winter sports resort of Alto Campoo, we come to the source of the Ebro river in Fontibre at the foot of the road and the castle of Argueso, a medieval fortress consisting of two towers joined by a central section. In Espinilla, we find some stelae and in Proaño a charming tower. Nearby in Abiada, they hold an unusual festival called “Los Campanos”, where cattle are adorned and exhibited with their characteristic bells. The brown bear, a species in danger of extinction, roams in the area of Mazandrero on its way to the sierra of Pena Labra. Returning to Reinosa, we proceed until reaching Bolmir and Retortillo, then to the marsh area; both villages made up the nucleus of what was once the main Roman settlement in Cantabria, Juliobriga, where some ruins can still be seen. In Cervatos we can admire the Romanesque 12th century Collegiate Church of San Pedro, built over a primitive monastery. Also in Arroyo, at the foot of the reservoir, a Romanesque church has been preserved , but the religious centre of the region is the Monastery of Montesclaros, a solitary haven in a superb natural setting. Approaching Polientes, the capital of the municipality of Valderredible, we come across some Roman ruins (Santa Maria de Hito) and a large number of Romanesque monuments, the best example being the Collegiate Church of San Martin de Elines, and some fortifications, such as the tower of Ruerrero. But the most characteristic places of interest in this region are the primitive hermitages carved into the rock which gives us a look at Christian Cantabria during the Late Middle Ages. The best examples are found in Cadalso, Arroyuelos, Santa Maria de Valverde and Campo de Ebro. 

The eastern valleys
The eastern coast of Cantabria extends between Santander Bay and the village of Castro Urdiales bordering the Basque Country. This stretch of the coastline is a continuous succession of cliffs, valuable marshlands and fine beaches . After leaving Santander , we come to Pedreña, where we find the golf course Real Club de Golf. Here you can taste the famed amayuelas (exquisite clams). Pedreña is connected by a bridge to the first large expanse of sand on the coast: El Puntal de Somo (where ceramics workshops abound) and Loredo, with more than 4 kilometres of beautiful beach, site of a spectacular horseraces every summer. From Loredo to the cape of Ajo, the coastline becomes more rugged, alternating with lovely coves, among them Langre, Galizano, Antuerta and Cuberris in Ajo. Isla and Noja, tourist resorts par-excellence, are the next coastal enclaves. In the former, the exquisitely prepared seafood, especially lobster, is renowned. With regards to architecture, of interest are three lovely towers and the Palacio de los Condes de Isla, built in the 17th century. Noja boasts four splendid beaches which attract a large number of visitors to the village: Ris, Joyel, Noja and Trengandin. Separated from Noja by El Brusco point, which gives way to Berria beach, is Santoña, a charming fishing village. Located in the area is a big canning industry (the most important in Spain with 80% of the production), based around the capture of tuna and anchovies. The most important monument in Noja is the 14th century Romanesque Church of Santa Maria del Puerto. Also characteristic are the military fortifications on the top of mount Buciero, overlooking the strategically located old port. Juan de la Cosa, sailor and cartographer on the Santa Maria, one of Columbus’s ships, was born in Noja. Laredo “Capital of the Emerald Coast”, opposite Santona dock , has one of the longest and loveliest flat beaches of fine sand in the region : Salve, a vast sandy expanse five kilometres long, has burgeoned around a prosperous tourist industry. Its Old Quarter consists of a geometric network of streets (ruas), crowned by the Gothic parochial Church of Santa Maria which houses a magnificent Flemish altarpiece. The most well-known festival called the Batalla de Flores (Battle of flowers) is held at the end of summer and is an authentic spectacle of light and colour. Castro Urdiales, the old Roman port called Flaviobriga, still preserves an elegant air which since the early 20th century made it a primary summer destination of its well-to-do Basque neighbours . Its main monuments from different styles and periods with rich ornamentation contrast sharply with the quaint fishing quarter. The ensemble formed by the Church of Santa Maria (the most important example of Cantabrian Gothic architecture) and the castle lighthouse, visible from any corner of the village, form the most representative picture of Castro Urdiales. The taverns and restaurants in the port are the perfect places to enjoy snails and sea bream, especially on St Andrews Day as the tradition requires, or the excellent traditional stews cooked at the kitchen range any time of the year. Coso Blanco and La Pasion Viviente are the most popular festivals of regional interest. The former, held on the first Friday in July, consists of an evening parade of carriages beautifully adorned by local artists. La Pasion Viviente is a dramatic theatrical staging of Good Friday which travels through the streets of the town.

Pasiego Valleys
The Pasiego region is unquestionably the area with the most distinctive personality in Cantabria, holding onto a traditional way of life of great ethnographic interest. Its geographical isolation, favoured by its extraordinary wild terrain of verdant landscapes cut off from the main transportation routes, its extremely humid climate (with the most rainfall in Cantabria), as well as its dedication to livestock breeding, produced a very unique form of migration for generations. This consisted of moving families and their belongings from cabin to cabin in search of better pastures for the livestock. A large number of these cabins with stone roofs are scattered on the mountainsides, giving a distinctive appearance to the landscape. The Pasiego region is cantered around three villages: Vega de Pas, San Pedro del Romeral and San Roque de Riomiera. The first two are located in the Pas valley where the river of the same name runs through. The third one is in the neighboring Miera valley. Many of the neighbouring municipalities, such as Luena, Ruesga,Soba, also take part in Pasiego customs. Quality dairy products used in the age old process of making exquisite butter are the basic ingredients is the sobaos (sponge cakes) and quesadas pasiegos (cheesecake), giving them a delicious texture and flavour. We will depart from Solares (mineral water springs) on the N634 and travel to Pamanes. Here, the Baroque Palacio de Elsedo is from the 17th century and palace now houses an interesting museum of contemporary art. Tracing the natural course of the Miera River, we reach Lierganes, set at the foot of two small mountains called “las Tetas”. The town has a concentration of valuable classical architecture from the 17th and 18th centuries, Also famous for its sacristanes (a type of pastry), the town has kept alive the legend of the “Fish Man” who supposedly went into the waters of the Miera river and surfaced five years later in the coastal town of Cadiz in southern Spain covered in fish scales, barely able to utter a word. Following the course of the Miera, we come to San Roque de Riomiera, surrounded by spectacular landscapes. Snow in winter is a typical sight here. After crossing the valley , we reach Selaya and find the sanctuary of the Virgin of Valvanuz, worshiped with great devotion by the Pasiegos. One kilometer later we arrive at Villacarriedo, where the lavish 18th century Palacio de Sonanes stands , a jewel of the Cantabrian Baroque. We return to Selaya before going through the winding and perpetually green pass of Braguia to get to Vega de Pas, an original rural hamlet with an ethnographic museum. Here the economy revolves around the production of sobaos (sponge cakes) and quesadas (cheesecake). Towards the south, near the province of Burgos, we find the last of the Pasiego towns, San Pedro del Romeral, a charming village surrounded by green countryside and mountains.

Ason and Soba Valleys
The region bathed by the Ason River and its tributary, the Gandara, which joins up in Ramales, is found in the eastern portion of Cantabria. Occupied largely by vast limestone massifs sheltering hundreds of caves. The area also boasts imposing forests of native trees and lovely sparsely populated landscapes. The impressive waterfall with a 50 meter drop at the source of the Ason is a spectacular site. Following the course of this river as it drains into the Treto River, we come upon Limpias, an old port. The town is noted for the miraculous image of Santo Cristo de la Agonia (Sacred Christ in Agony) and exhibits noteworthy civil architecture. Hot chocolate with picatostes (fried bread fingers) are a local speciality. Not too far away we find Ampuero, a place with picturesque enclosed glass galleries. In the beginning of September they celebrate a boisterous bullfighting festival including running of the bulls, similar to those held in Pamplona but on a smaller scale. Good food as well as a lively ambiance on the weekends are an added attraction. A nearby side road leads to upper Somahoz, an enclave affording a lovely view and the location of the Sanctuary of La Bien Aparecida, patroness of Cantabria. The small Gothic sculpture, the reason for a popular and multitudinous pilgrimage ,owes its name to a mysterious apparition in 1605, Once again on the road, we pass by Ramales de la Victoria, capital of the Alto Ason. The village takes its name in honour of the victory won in its territory by the liberals during the Carlist Wars (1839). Every year since they have held the “Verbena del Manton”, called this because during the confusion of the battle , a trunk appeared, filled with mantones , embroidered silk shawls from Manila. Remales de la Victoria has an excellent gastronomic tradition as well as an important group of caves , some of which have magnificent cave paintings (Covalanas). Our next stop is Arredondo, nicknamed “capital of the world”, due to the numerous Spanish emigrants who left Spain to seek their fortune in Latin America and later returned to the village. The town boasts a neoclassical church, flanked by a huge cylindrical tower where the new world emigrant Antonio Gutierrez Solana tried to view the sea.