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The
natural beauty
Cantabria’s
natural
heritage is
exceptional.
The rivers,
beaches,
cliffs and
valleys,
mountains and
forests create
a mosaic of
contrasting
landscapes.
From among the
considerable
number of
places of
interest, the
ones with
special
official
protection are
particularly
noteworthy,
although there
are others of
exceptional
beauty, such
as the source
of the Ason
River,
Santander Bay,
Abra del Pas,
Ebro Marsh and
the estuaries
of Tina Mayor
and Tina
Menor. There
are six
protected
nature areas
in Cantabria.
Parque Natural
de las Dunas
de Liencres,
located at the
mouth of the
Pas River,
forms the most
important dune
complex in the
northern
Iberian
peninsula.
Parque del
Macizo de
Peñacabarga,
which includes
within its
borders the
Cábarceno
karst, a
spectacular
reddish
geological
formation,
encompasses a
nature park
with partially
free roaming
animals. The
Parque Natural
de Oyambre is
a scenic park
amid marshes
and meadows
with the Picos
de Europa
mountains as a
backdrop. This
is the place
where the most
diverse
ecosystems
co-exist. The
Parque Natural
Saja-Besaya
sits between
the basins of
these two
rivers and
preserves
considerable
forests of
beech and oak
trees, where
animal species
threatened
with
extinction
such as the
brown bear and
golden eagle
can still be
found. The
Reserva
Natural de las
Marismas de
Santona y Noja
is a nature
reserve around
one of the
most valuable
estuaries
ecologically
in northern
Spain. There
are regularly
more than 80
species of
birds in the
marshes .The
Parque
Nacional de
los Picos de
Europa, a
national park
containing the
highest peaks
in the
Cantabrian
mountains, has
elevations
exceeding
2,500 meters
(8,200 feet)
and landscapes
of long narrow
canyons and
deep valleys.
History
Archaeological
remains from
the Late
Palaeolithic
period found
in different
parts of the
region,
including
Altamira and
PuenteViesgo
among others,
are evidence
of human
presence in
prehistoric
times. In the
Middle Ages
the first
settlements
were founded
around various
monasteries;
refuges to
those fleeing
from the Arab
invasion. The
boundaries of
the different
areas of the
region were
defined during
this period,
and the
present day.
Cantabrian
borders
(although
slightly
reduced) are
basically the
same. The
strategic
location of
Cantabria soon
brought about
trading by sea
with the
principal
European Ports
and later with
America. The
17th and 18th
centuries were
times of great
commercial
expansion
characterized
by heavy
emigration to
the New World.
The 19th
century
produced the
first traces
of industry, a
flourishing
banking
institution
and a
well-to-do
middle class.
Nowadays,
although
agriculture,
cattle-raising
and fishing
continue to
occupy a good
part of the
population,
the tourism
industry,
including the
hotel and
restaurant
business, as
well as other
service
sectors, are
the main
pillars of the
Cantabrian
economy.
Exploring
Cantabria
The region can
be divided
into 8
different
areas, each
having its own
characteristics.
Liebeña and
Picos de
Europa
We begin this
itinerary in
Unquera on the
N-621 road at
the north-west
end of
Cantabria
through the
Desfiladero de
la Hermida, a
narrow canyon
19 kilometres
long with
nearly
vertical walls
that run along
the meandering
course of the
Deva River. In
the canyon, we
can go on foot
to the right,
over a
difficult road
leading to
Tresviso where
they produce a
blue cheese by
hand. The end
of the canyon
approaches
Lebeña. The
church of
Santa Maria
here was built
in the 10th
century and is
the best
example of
Mozarab
architecture
in Cantabria.
The term
Mozarab refers
to the
Christians
living in
Moslem Spain
and their
style of
architecture.
You can then
travel to the
pretty hamlet
of Potes,
capital of the
region of
Liebana and
geographic and
commercial
centre of the
surrounding
five valleys.
In the
picturesque
village
centre, the
chief
monuments are
the towers of
the Infantado
and Orejon de
la Lama, both
dating from
the 15th
century. Also
known as the
village of
bridges,
market day is
held every
Monday
throughout the
year.
Continuing
along our
journey
through the
valley of
Camaleño, we
come upon the
Monastery of
Santo Toribio.
Probably
founded in the
6th century,
it reached
great
notoriety in
the ninth
century
because the
monk Beato
resided here
and wrote
Commentaries
of the
Apocalypses, a
masterpiece of
medieval
miniature art.
The church is
the most
interesting
part of the
complex. The
present Gothic
style was
achieved when
they built
over the
former ruins.
At the
beginning of
the 18th
century,
construction
was completed
with a
building of a
baroque chapel
to house the
Lignum Crucis
(the largest
surviving
piece of the
True Cross of
Christ),
attributing to
Saint Toribio,
bishop of
Astorga, the
transfer of
this relic to
Cantabria. The
Monastery of
Santo Toribio
is one of the
four places in
the world
where it is
possible to
obtain the
Jubilee or
plenery
indulgence in
addition to
being on the
pilgrimage
road to
Santiago de
Compostela.
Nearby is one
of the most
singular
hermitage
complexes in
Spain.
Proceeding on
our route , we
can see small
picturesque
villages
hanging on the
sides of the
imposing
eastern massif
of the Picos
de Europa,
such as
Arguebanes,
Brez,
Tanarriou and
Mogrovejo,
distinguished
by the
silhouette of
its graceful
medieval tower
framed between
the high
mountain. All
of the
villages are
charming rural
hamlets
immersed in
dreamlike
scenery where
the local
specialty of
the region ,cocido
lebaniego (a
stew featuring
chickpeas) can
be savoured.
The end of the
tour takes us
to Fuente Dé.
Here we find a
Parador de
Turismo and a
cable car
which takes us
almost
vertically up
the face of
the central
massif of the
Picos de
Europa . From
the lookout,
the panoramic
view is
extraordinary
. Other
excursions
through the
other valleys
of Liebana
will guide us
to Piasca,
where we find
the Romanesque
Church of
Santa Maria
dating from
1174, or the
Llesba
lookout, next
to San Glorio
pass,
commanding a
spectacular
view of the
Cantabrian
mountains.
Saja-Nansa
Area
The Saja-Nansa
river basins
define the
boundaries of
the
central-western
area of
Cantabria.
Starting out
from Cabezón
de la Sal on
the N-634
,where they
hold the
festival
called Dia de
Cantabria (Day
of Cantabria)
at the
beginning of
August, we
will find
Ruente. The
famous
“Fuentona”
here is a
geological
feature of
interest. Next
is Valle, the
capital of
Cabuérniga. At
the
crossroads, a
right turn
leads to
Carmona ,
Tudanca and
Polaciones
which share
the route with
the Nansa
River. The
Reserva
Nacional de
Caza (National
Hunting
Reserve) is
the largest in
Spain. Taking
this
itinerary, we
pass by a
series of
villages with
interesting
rural
architecture
until we reach
the National
Historic-Artistic
complex of
Bárcena Mayor,
a storybook
village
seemingly
frozen in
time.
Throughout the
Cabuérniga
valley you can
savour the
regional
specialty :cocido
montanes (a
stew made of
dried beans,
cabbage, meat
and blood
sausage). A
turn-off to
the right at
Valle leads to
a mountain
village with
equally
handsome
popular
architecture,
Carmona.
Particularly
interesting is
the Palacio de
Rubin de Celis,
converted into
a charming
hotel. In
Carmona, they
still preserve
the tradition
of
handcrafting
abarcas
(typical
wooden shoes
used in the
villages). Our
itinerary
passes San
Sebastian de
Garabandal, a
town which
became famous
in the 1950’s
because the
Virgin Mary
was said to
have appeared
to some young
girls. Tucked
on the side of
a mountain
along the
route, La
Cohilla
reservoir
provides
access to the
Polaciones
valley with
magnificent
examples of
rural
architecture
(Puente Pumar,
Uznayo,
Lombraña).
Western Coast
The western
coast of
Cantabria
boasts
monumental
towns, as well
as traditional
seafaring
villages. We
start out in
Suances, a
tourist hamlet
in the region
of the Besaya,
which has
excellent
beaches of
fine sand and
remarkable
cuisine. Next,
Santillana del
Mar is the
most important
National
Historic-Artistic
complex in
Cantabria and
one the best
preserved in
Spain. The
entire town is
a national
monument and
living museum
of a medieval
9th century
village,
developed
around the
Collegiate
Church of
Santa Juliana,
although most
of the town
pertains to
diverse
architectural
styles from
the 14th to
the 18th
centuries.
Suffice it to
say that here
we can uncover
medieval
towers (Torre
del Merino,
Torre de
DonBorja),
Renaissance
palaces
(Palacio de
los Velarde)
and Baroque
noble homes (Casona
de los Villa,
Casa de la
Archiduquesa
de Austria,
Casa de los
Valdivieso).
In spite of
this diversity
of styles, the
town presents
a harmonious
and
homogeneous
aspect,
approachable
by a single
access road:
the Calle de
Santo Domingo.
Here the old
quarter
begins, open
only to
pedestrian
traffic. The
road forks and
one branch of
the Y- shaped
street leads
to the
Collegiate
Church, the
most important
religious
monument in
the Romanesque
style in
Cantabria.
Erected over a
former
hermitage in
the 12th
century, it
preserves a
remarkable
cloister with
skilfully
sculpted
capitals.
Tucked among
the stone
buildings in
Santillana del
Mar are three
interesting
museums. Take
a few minutes
to taste the
local
specialty of
leche con
bizchocho
(traditional
sponge cake
served with
milk ). Two
kilometres
from
Santillana del
Mar are the
Caves of
Altamira.
Discovered in
1879 and
declared a
World Heritage
Site by the
UNESCO, they
enclose
polychrome
cave paintings
made by early
man during the
Late
Palaeolithic
period
approximately
14,000 years
ago.
Visits have
been
restricted for
the last two
years but soon
the
inauguration
of an
interesting
replica should
remedy this
situation .
Leaving
Altamira in
the direction
of Comillas,
we pass by
Cobreces with
its Cistercian
abbey (noted
for its
excellent
cheese) and
lovely beach.
Comillas
combines a
popular
architectural
tradition,
represented by
the old
square, the
parish church
and some of
the homes in
the centre of
the village ,
together with
notable
buildings
erected during
the period of
splendour
enjoyed under
the tutelage
of the first
marquis. Four
buildings
preside over
the town.
First, the
Neo-Gothic
Palacio de
Sobrellano,
residence of
the marquis of
Comillas and
summer
residence of
the Spanish
royal family
in 1881 and
1882. Next to
the palace is
the richly
decorated
villa known as
El Capricho
created by the
internationally
acclaimed
architect
Antonio Gaudi,
now used as a
deluxe
restaurant.
Third is the
cemetery with
interesting
Modernist
mausoleums
culminated by
the famed
angel of
Llimona and
last of all,
the monumental
Pontifical
University,
Neo-Gothic in
style with
Mudejar
influences,
which has
graduated
notable
archbishops.
(Mudejar was a
Moslem subject
to Christian
rule , a term
extending also
to their
architecture).
Continuing on
our route, we
arrive at San
Vicente de la
Barquera, an
old world
fishing
village and
one of the
loveliest
spots along
the Spanish
coast against
the
breathtaking
backdrop of
the
snow-capped
Picos de
Europa. San
Vincente de la
Barquera also
boasts a
splendid group
of white sand
beaches, a
quaint old
quarter with a
church ,a
castle and the
remains of old
walls, in
addition to
its
characteristic
old bridges .
A fine
assortment of
fish and
seafood is an
added
attraction,
along with its
local
specialty of
sorropotun (a
variety of
fish stew).
Besaya
River Basin
The Besaya
river
originates
near Reinosa
and together
with the Saja
drains into
the Suances.
Its natural
course runs
through the
centre of the
region and is
a continuous
succession of
narrow ravines
and broad
valleys which
have formed
the main route
to the plateau
of Castile
since Roman
times.
Starting out
in Torrelavega,
where the
monumental
ensemble of
Viernoles with
palaces and
mansions from
the 18th to
the 20th
centuries and
the National
Market of
Ganados are of
particular
interest , the
first town we
run into is
Cartes with
excellent
examples of
civil mountain
architecture
from the 17th
and 18th
centuries. Of
special
interest are
the fortified
towers joined
by an arch,
symbol of the
medieval power
of the
Manrique
family. Cartes
as well as the
neighbouring
town of
Riocorvo have
been declared
National
Historic-Artistic
complexes. In
the vicinity
of Riocorvo,
we find the
Church of
Santa Maria de
Yermo, a
magnificent
example of the
Romanesque
style. Next on
the itinerary,
we come to Las
Caldas with
its health spa
and a
monastery from
the mid-17th
century which
houses a
notable and
venerated
altarpiece .
Accompanying
the Besaya
river while it
flows through
the Buelna
valley, off to
one side is
the
magnificent
gigantic stele
of Barros (a
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